As Americans across the country pack suitcases for summer vacations and relaxation–sipping on flourescent watermelon wedges (or salty margaritas) sprawled on brightly colored beach towels beside pools and along beaches–farmers swing their wheel hoes into action at full speed, head down and dirty inside 14 hour work days. And then some. Our bodies are heavy with harvest; the busiest time of year. We wear the sun on our skin; new lines decorate our faces and muscles sculpt beneath summer work clothes to transform shape. Jim lost enough weight to demand an emergency thrift store outing to secure pants that would not fall down in the fields. Our hands are so swollen from the work our wedding rings no longer fit and now sit collecting dust in a bowl inside the cabin. But really, who needs rings when you’ve got your hands tangled together inside of a pig! (As for our wedding rings, we spent less than a 100 euro on both which we bought in a tiny jewelry shop in Greece from a woman who had been married to her husband for over twenty-five years and had never worn a ring. I took this as a good omen and we decided to buy our mismatched rings from her.)
We have little time for anything other than work but we’re rewarded with food meant for kings. This is why farmers farm; harvest means money in your empty, worn out pockets and food that makes you weak in the knees.
What seemed difficult this past spring– the mulching, weeding and aching back–is replaced in summer with earlier start times and later endings, ever more weeds needing to be pulled out like rotten teeth daily. Some days we spend nine hours tediously picking berries, packing flats full of pints to and fro, interrupted only by animal chores. I never thought I’d be jumping up and down to volunteer to climb into a manure filled pig pen with sour whey spilling down my arms, the weight of soaked grains in each hand as I try my best to lift the buckets over the fencing without getting trampled by squealing pigs. One morning I was chosen to harvest broccoli over berries and I practically danced through the fields. I could feel the eyes of envy from the interns left in the berries. Even Jim confessed to a tiny particle of jealousy as I made my way from the raspberry hills down to the vegetable fields.
Sometimes, to stay sane, I need to remind myself that this is my year of “Farming Peace Corps.” In fact, I always wanted to join the Peace Corps but with my fear of long-term commitment, I fell short of actually completing the application. Then, as you know, I got married, smacking that fear of commitment right in the face and with that, left my indoor bathroom to move to a farm. I think my father in law calls regularly to check in on me to make sure I’m not going to divorce his son. I find this is endearing. Jim shrugs.
Small farmers across the country are witnessing the weight of the year. Here, we had much too much wet for too long. Prolific fungus growth, called mummy berry, has destroyed up to 90% of our most delicious berry and most profitable crop–the organic blueberries Finnriver is famous for. These blueberries are voluptuous purple gemstones, the kind that would decorate a goddess or fabled in fairytales to release enchanting powers. If there were a Blueberry Superhero she would eat Finnriver blueberries. But in our loss, we are not alone. Disastrous yields have hit farmers hard all over. Here, we had record setting wet and cold but other parts of the country face horrific fires and tragic droughts.
Mummy berry is a result of fungus that proliferates under moist conditions. It is seen almost every year in this region; the temperate, wet climate lends itself perfectly to the spread of the disease. As mummy berry attacks, berries which at first appear to be normal, begin to shrivel into a mummified nest and die before ever ripening. Normal measures of protection against mummy berry include removing fallen berries and mulching with an absorbent material to at least 2 inches thick to bury the fungus and prevent it from fruiting and sending out spores to the wind. Due to the massive amount of mummy berry this season, lead farmers Janet and Jeff, have decided to try a new plan of action: Ducks!
“Ducks thrive in wet and moist conditions and introducing them into the fenced-in blueberry field will create a symbiosis of farm life; the ducks will eat the fallen mummy berries, thereby cleaning up next year’s potential damage, and their feces will fertilize the field. This symbiotic method is a tribute to permaculture, an eco-systematic, sustainable approach to food production through edible landscaping that was developed in Australia. One of the tenets of the philosophy is that the ‘farm’ operates on a closed-loop system; bringing as little outside influence in as possible and losing or wasting as little as possible.” Link to full article on Finnriver Mummy Berry.
In other words, the ducks are here to devour the carnage.
So yes, there is burden bound to every harvest season that hangs heavy on already sore backs. But there is also much joy to be shared including my favorite, Friday Pizza Night! Every Friday evening Jocylin (our master bread and pizza dough maker–I like to call her sourdough goddess) fires up the cob oven outside the barn as our ensemble gathers at the end of a long work day to dig our hungry faces into homemade pizzas. The pizzas are made with flour from Finnriver grains, decorated with our meat and vegetables, and accompany cold beer or cider from the barn. It’s during these moments, when our little community comes together overlooking the glowing Chimacum Valley to share the bounty of all we have worked so hard for together, that I realize there is no place else in the world I’d rather be in this moment. By the time the sun sets, we collect our boots, wash our hands, and drag ourselves to bed; our eyelids glued with sleep before even sinking into the down of the pillow.
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If we’re not working, we’re trying our best to get off the farm to truly let it escape our minds by hiking and camping in the mountains. For our one year wedding anniversary we took a beautiful–if difficult–bike trip across the epic Orcas Island in the San Juans, with our camping gear strapped on the back. The island is a horseshoe shape with a mountain in the middle. You begin at sea level, climb up the mountainous terrain and end on the opposite side of the horseshoe back at sea level. The hard part is the fact that once you get there you have to do it all over again to get back. Our legs were already sore from harvest, but the bike trip did them in. We took time to indulge in a delicious 2 hour yoga class–a luxury time does not allow on the farm. We both sort of melted beside the saltwater cove after that and then we just slept for a very long time.